Saturday, September 10, 2011

The last of the frijoles, monos, and viajes en Centro America...all coming to an end.

The last time I updated my blog was during week 3 of my stay in Guatemala, but I've obviously been lazy since it's now week 10 and only one more week remains.


Time has really flown by, thanks to the help of a lot of friends.  I've definitely been keeping busy studying Spanish, going out, and traveling quite a bit.  Once I finally got situated here, I was able to make some great friends who I could share my experiences with.


Since my last blog, I have visited the colonial Spanish town of Antigua, climbed a giant volcano, relaxed in Xela's natural hot spring baths, visited the ancient Mayan civilization at Tikal, swam in the world's eighth natural wonder -- Semuc Champey, and traveled to Costa Rica and back....whew, that's a lot in just nine weeks!


So here it goes:


Towards the end of July, a few friends and I took a three-hour journey on Guatemala's world-renowned "chicken buses" (old U.S. school buses that have been donated to Guatemala) to the historic town of Antigua.  Guatemala's ex-capital, this town was settled and built by the colonial Spaniards; it therefore has a completely different feel than the rest of Guatemala.  Although beautiful and very interesting, it's also extremely touristy and very expensive...so we only stayed for one night.  Antigua was once destroyed by a massive earthquake, which is the reason that the location of the nation's capital was moved to Guatemala City.  While in Antigua, we were lucky enough to meet an American man who had moved to Guatemala to start a fair-trade coffee co-op right outside of Antigua.  He arranged for us a private tour of one of the nearby coffee farms.  We were led around by the farm's owner (a humble Guatemalan man) who showed us the entire process of planting, farming, roasting, and processing coffee.  That was an experience I wasn't expecting to receive!


The colonial town of Antigua
One of Antigua's churches at night
Antigua
Antigua at dusk
The next weekend I found myself packed and ready to climb up Central America's tallest peak, a volcano called Tajumulco.  It was a two-day trip, one day to arrive to the top, one night of camping, and the next day spent descending the volcano.  Tajumulco is one of Central America's most beautiful sites...from the peak you can clearly see the Pacific Ocean, Mexico, Xela (the town I live in), and as far east over Guatemala as your eyes can reach.  It was an incredible hike, extremely cold and slightly drizzly.  We were so high up that a majority of our time hiking and camping was spent in the clouds, therefore it was always cold and moist.  We stopped and camped about 30 minutes short from the very peak of the volcano.  The plan was to wake up at 3 a.m. in order to hike the last half-hour to the top to catch the sunrise.  So we did!  And it was one of the most unbelievable sunrises you could possibly imagine, but also unbelievably cold.  Not to mention, it was really difficult to breath since we were about 14,000 ft (4,200 m) above sea level.


Climbing Central America's tallest peak -- Volcán Tajumulco
View from the volcano's peak right after sunrise
The following weekend I was off to the eastern coast of Guatemala on a three-day trip.  We drove about eight hours east to the province of Petén, which is home to most of Guatemala's tropical rain forests.  We arrived at our destination at about 4 a.m., at which time we got out of our van and hopped onto the back of a pick-up truck.  Underneath a night sky filled with millions of stars (we were in the middle-of-no-where...I've never seen so many stars in my life), we road on the back of this pick-up for about an hour and fifteen minutes down a mountainous dirt road until we arrived at a river in the middle of the rainforest.  We were about to go spelunking (cave diving) in a natural cave formed by this river!  Using candles as our light source, we entered into a large cave filled with water.  Obviously, the further in we went the deeper the water got, so we had to swim...with our candles.  The water was freezing cold and the cave was pitch black, but it was one of the greatest things I've ever done in my life.  I actually climbed up a waterfall (inside the cave) and then jumped from a ledge into a cold, deep pool of water (still inside the cave)...almost landed on a giant rock and almost died, but fortunately didn't!


After spelunking, we made our way over to Semuc Champey, a natural wonder in the middle of the rain forest.  Semuc Champey is a series of above-ground pools that have naturally formed on top of a land bridge that covers a river.  So, in the picture below, you see a bunch of aqua-colored pools...underneath that land is a fast-flowing river, so the pools are merely resting on a natural bridge that covers the river.  We later got to swim in these pools, relaxing and bathing in natural river water under the Guatemalan sun while admiring the rain forest's beauty.


Semuc Champey
Semuc Champey
The next day, we made our way over to Tikal, a national park that is Guatemala's pride and joy.  Tikal is the ancient Mayan city on the eastern coast of Guatemala.  It is unbelievably expansive (only about 20% has been excavated at this point) and once housed a part of the great Mayan civilization.  Today, it is mostly covered in rain forest as dirt and plants have covered the remains in the past centuries.

Panoramic view of Tikal and the surrounding rainforest






Jumping monkey's in Tikal

There they are -- the Mayan ruins of Tikal!
View from our hotel while visiting Tikal


Just an ordinary parrot

The next morning we were on our way to the Caribbean.  We traveled to the very eastern coast of Guatemala, to the mouth of a large river that feeds into the Caribbean Sea, a river called Rio Dulce.  We took an early morning boat ride around the river and along the coast, visiting a Caribbean town on the coast called Livingston.  Interestingly, Guatemala is not just made up of indigenous Mayans and mixed Latinos, but also has its share of Garifuna -- a Afro-Caribbean culture and language that exists only in this area.  Their language stems from an African tribal language mixed with Spanish, French, and English.  The Garifuna live along Guatemala's eastern coast and in most of Belize.  I was shocked (and felt ignorant) to learn that this whole other side to Guatemala existed, a side that I had never known of or heard about.


We later arrived at a little spot on the Caribbean coast called "The Seven Altars."  Similar to Semuc Champey, these are a series of seven little ponds in the rainforest.  The seventh and furthest pond is the deepest and there's even a little cliff that you can jump from.  So we hiked along the river until we reached the seventh pool.  And then, of course, I jumped.


Jumping into the 7 Altars
The next day I was on my way south, heading through El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua into the beautiful country of Costa Rica...although it may have taken four whole days and several hours of waiting at each countries border.  Anyways, I arrived safely in San Jose where I spent the night in a hostel, because the next morning I would be taking a bus towards the Pacific Ocean, to a deserted beach along the western coast called Playa Caletas.


I spent the next three weeks living on beach far from anything else.  It was such natural, hidden beauty all around and it's a place that I miss very much.  With the constant sound of waves crashing upon the shore and the symphony of chirping birds to accompany the sunrise each morning, who would want to leave a place like that?  I was sad to leave, but I had to come back to Guatemala.

Playa Caletas, Costa Rica
So, here I am, back in Guatemala, still working on my Spanish. I got back last Saturday, with two weeks ahead of me before my departure for India.  I spent three days this past week attending my last few Spanish classes here in Xela.  And of course, as a kind re-welcoming present, Xela greeted me with a 19-hour spell of non-stop pouring rain...not very nice after spending three weeks on the warm beaches of Costa Rica.  Also, tomorrow (September 11th) is Guatemala's election day, so things are getting hectic as the entire nation tries to decide on their new president, while 17 or so candidates do all that they possibly can to annoy everyone with as many "political-campaign-cars-with-loudspeakers-on-top" as possible...especially at 5 a.m. each morning...outside of my room.


Well, in two days, I'm off again, but this time I'm going back to a place I've already been...remember Lake Atitlán??  Yeah, well, I'm going back there for my last few days in Guatemala.  I'll be alone though, relaxing, thinking, swimming, thinking, chilling, thinking, and enjoying life! :)

Then it's off to India for three months!

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Rain, kayaks, and a lot of wilderness

I've now made it to week 3 of my trip to Guatemala.  I'm still in Xela, getting accustomed to the life here.  My Spanish has improved over the past two weeks, and so has the weather.  It's not as miserably cold and wet as it was when I first arrived.  Also, I've learned how to cope with the random spurts of cold pouring rain -- I just keep my umbrella with me every second of the day, and drink hot tea whenever I can.


Each week at ICA, students and teachers rotate.  So, I'm now on my third teacher.  And fortunately, they've all been great so far!  I've learned A LOT of Spanish up till now and I'm also practicing my speaking quite a bit since no one here speaks English.  I've started making myself at home, both at school and in my homestay.  It also helps that I've made a few friends now.

This past weekend, I took a 3-day long vacation to a lake about 2-3 hours away.  This lake, Lake Atitlán, is a huge mountain lake surrounded by three volcanoes and a bunch of little towns.  It was by far one of the most breathtaking landscapes that I have ever witnessed.  Imagine a large, light green mountain lake surrounded by volcanoes that are covered in Central American jungle...a peaceful, barely populated place where the sun, sky, and earth, and water all meet in one giant valley.  Okay, you can stop imagining now and actually take a look at some of the pictures I took :)

Panorama of Lake Atitlán
Lago de Atitlán
Volcan San Pedro -- picture from San Marcos
We got to Atitlán in something called a "chicken bus," which are actually old American school buses that Guatemala now uses for their own public transit.  Now imagine yourself in an old creaky school bus that has a capacity of about 45 adults, yet packed full with about 70 adults for a two and a half hour ride up and around Guatemala's mountains. Well, it was a unique experience.

While visiting Atitlán, we spent one night in a town called San Pedro and another night in a town called San Marcos.  The first town is the larger of the two, but still very very tiny. It was a nice, youthful place with a lot of backpackers.  While in San Pedro, we ate dinner at a cool Israeli restaurant, then rented kayaks the next day for about $1 and spent an hour exploring the lake.  We then hopped on a speedboat and rode across the lake to San Marcos.

Isreali restaurant in San Pedro
San Marcos is an interesting place.  It's a very small village that's entirely walkable in about 5 minutes.  There are two main "roads" that intersect in the "center" of the town. Every other "road" is not even accessible by car since they're actually just stone/mud walkways.  That can give you an idea of how peaceful it is.  Almost every building is built out of wood and is roofed with palm leaves (see pictures below).  Who lives here?  A small Mayan community, a handful of tourists, and another handful of life-loving Americans who decided to leave the craziness of the U.S. to spend the rest of their lives meditating and doing yoga by a lake in Guatemala.  That's San Marcos!  I'm trying to figure out a way to go back there for a longer period of time...maybe I'll stay there for my last two weeks in Guatemala, but that all depends on the money.

Our hostel in San Marcos
The "streets" of San Marcos
We also found an American man named Keith who lives in an enclosed piece of land in San Marcos.  He's lived in Guatemala for the past seven years and has become a master of chocolate.  He makes 100% pure sugarless chocolate using cacao beans from nearby areas.

Also, while in San Marcos, we found a cliff, called "Las Rocas," from which people can jump into the lake.  It's over 30 feet high...not a long fall.  I tried to fly off of the cliff, succeeded for a while, but ended up falling into the lake. 

About to take off...
I've begun my flight...
I'm flying!
...okay, not anymore.

For now, I'm back in Xela until further notice.  I have some plans for the weekend, but nothing huge.  I'll let you know when there's more excitement in my life.  But until then, I'll continue my endless search for a ukelele. (If anyone knows how or where to find a ukelele in Guatemala please let me know, because it's pretty impossible from what I've learned).

P.S.  I'm trying to learn how to play the ukelele, which is why I want to find one.

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Where'd the sun go?

I've now been in Guatemala for a few days.  The town that I'm in is called Quetzaltenango -- known as Xela (which is pronounced as Shela).  It's the second largest city in Guatemala after the capital, Guatemala City.  In order to get here, I had to endure a 4-hour bus ride from Guatemala City to Xela.  


Fortunately, while waiting in the Fort Lauderdale airport I made a Guatemalan friend who offered me a ride from the Guatemala airport to the bus terminal.  We managed to communicate with the very very little Spanish that I know, and it ended up saving me a few dollars that I would've paid for a taxi.  The bus ride was dark and cold...not what I was expecting.  I hopped on the bus at 3pm, but the sun started to set around 5pm.  By the time we were nearing Xela (around 6:30pm), it was pitch black outside and pouring rain.  Definitely not the welcoming I was expecting, haha.  I made my way to my homestay, met my host-mom (Judith), ate dinner, got settled in, and went to bed.  It continued to pour rain from the time I had arrived until about 10am the next morning.  I had known it was "rainy season" in Guatemala before coming here, but I didn't realize that meant virtually endless rain.  According to the people here, it's only supposed to rain for a few hours every afternoon, and then clear up in the late evening and morning hours.  But since I've been here, it's been raining A LOT more than just a few hours a day.  I guess I'll just have to wait and see though.  Luckily, yesterday and today have been relatively nice days...only a few drizzles here and there throughout the day.  Hopefully that will last.
View from my bedroom
View from my bedroom
Another view from my bedroom
So, besides this wonderful weather, I'm now getting a little bit more comfortable here.  I'm taking Spanish classes Monday through Friday for 4 hours each day, so my Spanish is steadily improving...but it's hard for me to stop throwing in Italian words by accident.  As of now, I only know how to speak in the present tense.  That makes conversations a little awkward, especially when my host mom asks me what I did last night.  It's difficult adjusting to living in an environment where I don't really speak the language.  But I've started to make a few friends.  I've met several American students that go to my school, and have also befriended two Guatemalans -- one of which was my teacher this past week, the other is the son of the host family of one of my American friends.  It's also difficult because many of the students at my school are only staying in Xela for a few weeks, whereas I'll be here for 10 more weeks.  I'm just hoping that some more long-term students will arrive soon.


In terms of daily life here in Xela, I get up each morning around 7:15 and eat a delicious Guatemalan breakfast at 7:30.  I then walk about 10 minutes to get to my school.  My classes last from 8am until noon, then I'm free for the rest of the day.  In the next few weeks I'm going to try to find something to occupy my free time with...maybe a job teaching English or volunteering at an elementary school.  My Spanish school also organizes daily activities such as hiking trips and Salsa lessons.  I'm trying to become a good Salsa dancer before I leave here :)  We've gone out to the clubs twice so far -- good for my practice.  On the nights that I don't go out, I go to bed around 11pm or midnight.  It's hard to resist sleeping since it gets dark and cold kind of early every day.


The food here is all amazing!!  I get three home-cooked meals a day, which I am always looking forward to.  Also, there is an incredible bakery here that bakes all kinds of fresh sweets each day.  Yesterday, I bought a large muffin, a piece of sugar bread, and another large sugary thing for less than 50 U.S. cents in total!  I might be going there every single day from now on!
View from the roof of my school
View from the roof of my school
View from the roof of my school
I.C.A. -- my Spanish school!
Hopefully, by the next time I update my blog I'll have gained 5 pounds from eating too much.  Keep your fingers crossed! :)